Spraying A Thin Layer of Knowledge
By Marc
A few weeks back I spent some time on this here blog talkin’ about painting fundamentals. While I think it is a useful overview for getting started, painting is a deep and diverse topic, and I’d like to spend a little time focusing on the most foundational element of the hobby.
I speak, of course, of primers.
For those of you who don’t know, primers are paints designed specifically to be used as a first coat on a model.
First off, you almost always want to start with black. As a moderately experienced painter myself, I still use black primers 95% of the time, and if you’re just getting into the hobby I would bump that number up to 99.9%. The reason is pretty simple: the human eye is very good at noticing errors and mistakes, so if you prime a model in white and there’s an area you can’t reach (or forget to paint), it will be the only part of the model anyone ever notices. But when you prime with black, that little area will just look like a shadow, and your eyes will focus on the rest of the model instead.
But what if you’re painting, say, the alien creatures from a copy of Nemesis and they’re all going to be blue-purple? Doesn’t it make more sense to prime in a dark blue instead? I’m so glad you asked, nebulous-voice-that-I-invented-for-this-post!
Priming in a colour other than white or black is a risk. For example, if you use a black primer and paint red over it, you’ll get a darker red. If you use a white primer and then paint red, you’ll get a brighter red. But if you do that with a blue primer you’ll get… I don’t know! Maybe darker red, maybe lighter, maybe purple, maybe brown… sure, with enough practice you can predict things like that, but those kinds of stumbling blocks can be extremely frustrating.
One last note on your black primer. Primers come in two overarching styles: brush or spray. Brush primers will get you more mileage, and have the added benefit that you can run them through an airbrush (that will be a post and a half all on its own). For most people, most of the time, spray primer is the one you want. It’s faster, easier, and as long as you have someplace well ventilated (I prime outside), absolutely what I recommend. If you live in a one bedroom apartment on the 35th floor without any windows, then maybe go with a brush primer.
As for options in black primer paint, I always stick with Citadel (Game Workshop’s painting line) for my primer. It’s the most expensive in the store, but I find the nozzle is fantastic, the consistency is rock-solid, and it’s as close to idiot-proof as a primer can be. You can definitely save money by going with the Vallejo or Army Painter black primers, but I’ve found my comfort zone with Citadel.
Ian’s Counterpoint:
I’ve used all the brands we have available at J&J’s, and I’ve come to enjoy Army Painter’s cans the most. I find their nozzle has the superior spray angle and the best control. When it comes to priming, the first coat doesn’t have to be pretty. Your focus needs to be on covering as much of the model as possible with as little paint as possible (to ensure you don’t fill surface details with paint). Happy priming!
Okay, you now have your can of primer in hand. You have assembled, cleaned, and filled the gaps on your models (why yes, we will be writing a post about model assembly in the future!). You’re ready to prime!
Almost.
Find something big and flat that you don’t mind getting paint on. This is what you’ll put your models on while you are priming. I use old cardboard boxes, but I have friends that use old hockey sticks, spare bathroom tiles, or a cafeteria serving tray. Lot’s of folks use something to attach the models to the flat surface, such as double-sided tape or poster adhesives (sometimes called “blu-tac”).
Time to shake the heck outta your can of spray paint (2 minutes is a recommended minimum), and then take your models outside.
The basics of spray priming are simple. Start spraying off to the side, away from the models, and then sweep smoothly over your target, about 30cm away. By not aiming directly at the models before you spray, you’ll avoid any potential blobs of paint being fired on your models as a result of buildup in the nozzle.
Rotate the box ninety degrees, and then spray again, starting away from the models, sweeping over them, and repeating until you’ve got a thin coverage on all surfaces of the model. You might want to tilt the box and do one or two passes of the models from underneath to get those difficult to hit spots, but make sure all your models are firmly fixed before you dump them all on the floor accidentally!
The last thing to remember is that it’s far better to do two thin coats of primer than one thick one. It’s also better to do one thin coat that covers most of the entire model than a thick coat that covers everything.
Thinner is better.
Let the models dry for at least an hour or so, and you’re ready to paint!
If you’re using a brush on primer, just remember to use thin coats when applying paint to the model. Avoid the urge to just glob it on!
That should just about cover it for beginner information about priming. There are many other techniques to discuss… zenithal highlighting, when is a good time to use coloured or metallic primers, and the new “Contrast Paint” primers… but for now, grab yourself a can of black primer and get to it!
Happy painting, everyone!